Sunday 6 October 2013

GAB 2013 Day 5: Wednesday September 25th - Land's End and the scenic route North

 A damp, foggy morning... Tent away wet again. Packed up and the mile or two down to Land's End for around 9am. Everything was still shut though apparently it is no problem just to wander on in...

Can you tell where I am yet?

Finding the route through the closed theme park and heading for the actual end of the land I found The Land's End Hotel. Parking up outside and asking at reception I was escorted to the bar where I bought a coffee and sat contemplating what the view would look like on a clear day. The waitress assured me she could make out the lighthouse in the fog but I didn't even have a clue which way I was supposed to be looking to find it... For any of you heading that way, rolling up as a damp cyclist didn't phase them one jot and the hotel certainly looked very classy and an excellent spot to blow the budget and stay the night at the end of a John O'Groats to Land's End ride. Surprisingly checking the prices they don't look too bad either...


Hunting around outside there was no sign of the famous signpost, just a notice saying that when it wasn't "in operation" to the other one at the other end of the patio - which wasn't there either. Ok, so I guess I saved myself the cost. And in the fog it would just have looked like it could have been anywhere. Another time...

I'd already made the decision, rather than take the fast LeJOG route along the A30 (potentially dangerous - ie. too many not-careful-enough drivers on what would be a rural A-road elsewhere in the country) to follow the coastal B-road north. This would mean more challenging riding but a better cycling experience and seeing more of the 'real' Cornwall.

Mid morning coffee and cake was at the Geevor Tin Mine cafe where the staff pronouced Kate as 'the unusual vehicle of the day'...


Travelling onwards the height increased, the surroundings becoming moorland. Picturesque dilapidated tin workings were all around... As the weather improved this whole section of coast kept revealing promising hints of pretty detours down to small villages. It would have been good to have the time to explore them all but I have miles to cover... I feel I need more words for this section - with improving weather and blue skies is was good, enjoyable riding that needs to be experienced rather than described.


The B-road remained quiet up to St Ives which is where everybody seemed to going to and from. With little choice on route I joined the busier route down into Hayle and a lunchtime cafe stop. Onwards, via Portreath. Taking the lesser road towards Porthowen the long drag was rewarded with a sudden and unexpected Tea Garden with the most wonderful Apple Crumble that was made with apples from the tree right next to the tables.

Clipping the edge of St Agnes and heading north the weather began to close in again and I was feeling the miles in my legs. Usually Day 3 is the challenging one so it seemed a little odd to be suffering today, but the turning weather wasn't helping. My GPS showed Cross Coombe Farm at Trevellas but arriving at the gate a sign indicated I was in the right place but there was no sign of any life or facilities. My first camp site failure. With a small 'public' touring site right next door I didn't bother poking around I went there instead.

Pitched, a good hot showered, coffee and caked, I took a gentle walk down the somewhat steep road to the beach...



Specs: 47 miles, 1018m/3340ft of climb, 9mph average speed.

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